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Tesla (UK) Ltd

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Over 20 years' experience in manufacturing, product development and distribution

Technical Issues - FAQs


Q. Immersion Heater - My Immersion Heater keeps tripping out and I have to press the reset button to restart it.

A. The ambient temperature in the surrounding area of the Immersion Heater is too great. The airing cupboard door needs to have ventilation at the bottom to draw cooler air in and the roof or ceiling above the cylinder, needs to be ventilated into the loft area above to take the hot air away. This should solve the issue.

Q. Immersion Heater - Why is the new side mounted element I fitted making a boiling / bubbling noise?

A. Possibly because the element is not the same model as the one that was removed. Try fitting a 14” element with a Double Bend.

Q. Immersion Heater - What is the red brace for on some of the longer elements?

A. This should be removed before fitting as it is a transit support.

Q. Immersion Heater - Should I use a sealing compound on the 2 ¼” thread?

A. No, you only really need to use the washer provided although PTFE tape may help if needed. Also, make sure all sealing surfaces are clean before fitting the element and that no sealant get into the tank or on the element surface itself .

Q. Immersion Heater - Why is the water just getting warm and not hot?

A. Try increasing the temperature that the thermostat is set to, but please ensure that the correct size of element has been fitted to the cylinder.

Q. Why with the old immersion heater could we get steaming hot water and now the new one is nowhere near as hot?

A. The new EN standard means that we cannot allow the upper limit of the control thermostat circuit to rise above 70 Degrees C as this will cause ambient temperature problems with nuisance trip outs due to interference with the secondary safety circuit.

Q. Why is there water in the base of the brass head of the Immersion Heater?

A. That means that there is a potential leak through the thermostat pocket. Please contact us.

Q. Why is the wiring inside the head of the immersion heater burnt?

A. Invariably this is due to an electrical short. Ensure that the wires into the thermostat are securely in place and the retaining screws are suitably secured onto the bared copper wires but NOT over tightened.

Q. Why don’t you put a temperature indictor on the thermostat anymore?

A. Only because people expected an exact temperature to be maintained. The original markings were for guidance only to show the temperature limits. Now, we only use a ‘+ or –‘ ,albeit the lower setting is generally around 40 Degrees C and the upper setting is around 68 Degrees C. Do not over turn the dial as that will cause irreparable damage.

Q. Immersion Heater - I have a dead unit with no electrical continuity between the live and neutral terminals. What can I do?

A. Please call us for guidance.

Q. Immersion Heater - What can I do with a dead short between the live or neutral terminals and earth?

A. Please call us for guidance.

Q. What can I do if the circuit breaker trips at the board when the immersion heater is turned on?

A. Generally, this will be because the circuit breaker is of insufficient rating. Please ensure that the circuit breaker fitted has a minimum rating of 25amp and is on it’s own circuit and that nothing else is connected OR the element has a ‘dead short’. Please consult a qualified electrician if in any doubt.

Q. There is covering of something on the sheathing of the immersion heater and it has stopped working. Why?

A. This will probably be a covering of limescale which has come from hard water and has effectively ‘choked’ the element. A new element of either Incoloy or Titanium should be refitted.

Q. Why does the red reset button keep popping out through the head of the thermostat and need to be constantly reset?

A. This happens when there is too much ambient temperature in the airing (or other) cupboard that the tank is installed in. In some unventilated areas, the thermostat senses excessive heat and the Dual Safety Disc activates shutting the electrical supply off. When the red button is depressed, the cycle resumes until it senses too much ambient temperature and cuts out again. The only solution is to ventilate the airing cupboard by a vent in the ceiling to allow hot air to escape into the loft area and a vent in the door at the bottom to allow cooler air to flow through thus maintaining a lower ambient temperature.